Yes, I was thinking of it but wrote down wrong.
gian
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FreeCAD aside, if you want to go somewhat commercial there is “Moment Of Invention”. I tried the free 90 trial and it was really powerfull and somewhat simpler than FreeCAD.
Additionally, no subscription, no cloud, just the software.
gian @lemmy.grys.itto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Has anyone sold or otherwise handed off their 3d printing business?English
5·1 year agoHe can do both.
He can sell the STL to someone willing to print the thing himself and there are people who prefer to let someone else print the thing. One thing do not exclude the other
gian @lemmy.grys.itto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Any tips for designing a fitting part for the golf 6 dashboardEnglish
4·1 year agoProbably without a 3d scanner, using paper and scissor you will only get a (hopefully) better and better approximation of the real surface.
Anyway, without a 3d scanner, to have some precise measurement you could just use some modeling clay to recreate the correct form and then set some reference point and take measurements from there, it should be precise enough to create a model in Fusion360 that account also for every asymmetry that could be present.
Maybe a larger volume is not important for you, but to others maybe it is.
But his point is what you are basically saying that a bike is more expensive than a bicycle looking only at the price tag.
gian @lemmy.grys.itto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Making a press mold, need some inputEnglish
2·2 years agoI made 3 part because I need some details on what will be the top of the piece, little seams to show the separation of each hex, as well as the thinner walls on the bottom. I did try 2 part molds before, but getting it off the mold was near impossible most of the time. Like this, I can just push the piece off.
Got it. I did’t consider the extraction.
Currently, only the presser has holes for the water, should I add it to the bottom piece, too?
Not if it work well.
The thick walls are to endure the pressure and reduce warping, though maybe they could be thinner? I tested adding some gypsum to the mixture, waiting for one piece to dry further and already figured that I have to remove from the mold before it hardens too much, otherwise it’ll end up stuck (that or I have to properly sand/fill the pieces like bluewing said above)
If they endure the pressure they are ok. I would have done them thicker but just to be sure.
For the gypsym it seems strange, every time that I did something with it I had no problem to remove from the mold, expecially if it was made with some sort of plastic. Probably more than the pieces you need to sand the mold to have smooth surfaces, so that the gypsum does not adhere to it.
gian @lemmy.grys.itto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Making a press mold, need some inputEnglish
2·2 years agoTwo options in my opinion.
First one is to redesign the mold to have only 2 parts that are 2 semi shells, the way you desing it currently need to have a very strict tolerance in the parts which I don’t think are doable with a 3d printer (also, the wall seems too little thick). With a 2 part mold, you do some holes for the water on what will be the back side of your tile and you should be good.
Another option is to use something different, like white wall gypsum and maybe adding some acrylic color it needed, and somewhat copy the way the real tile are done.
If what you are doing is for model and/or some game, white gypsum is great, I did some nice diorama for aircraft with them. And it is more durable in my opinion.
gian @lemmy.grys.itto
3DPrinting@lemmy.world•What 2D printers do 3D printer people prefer?English
3·3 years agoI had a Samsung SL-C430W (a laser color printer) and it still work really well after 7 years, but admitedly I don’t print that much and only a really few time a photos. On the other hand I printed on a variety of types of paper, from the standard one to the decals paper to paper to print shirts and lastly to paper to print on wood and it never disappointed.
Cheap toners (from Amazon) and really robust. But I think it is no sold.
Yep, that one. Not checked the name 😬
If you are willing to pay the price, you can try Moment Of Invention. It has also a fully functional time limited demo. I worked with the demo and, while for now I use Freecad, I must admit that it is pretty good
I would look for a printed (fdm or resin) that has a big and active commnutiy behind, maybe and Ender for FDM and Anycubic for resin
As for the software, there is a lot of options. Freecad and OpenScad are good (Openscad can be a little harder). I used moi3d (the demo version) and I found it really nice and easy, but it is nor free or open. But it has a free demo with full features (only time limited).
They seems to be some kind of JST connector.
Electronics and models shop should have them.
As last resource, Amazon has them in bulk