As far as I understand, wireguard is designed so that it can’t be portscanned. Replies are never sent to packets unless they pass full auth.

This is both a blessing and a curse. It unfortunately means that if you misconfigure a key then your packets get silently ignored by the other party, no error messages or the likes, it’s as if the other party doesn’t exist.

EDIT: Yep, as per https://www.wireguard.com/protocol/

In fact, the server does not even respond at all to an unauthorized client; it is silent and invisible.

“I can tell you there’s people right throughout Yarra choking on their croissants this morning,” Cr Jolly told ABC Melbourne radio.

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2025-10-03/melbourne-water-flood-mapping-yarra-darebin-council-outrage/105847310

Direct metal liquid contact from pin to pin! I love it.

(Not to mention how satisfying it is to get a pile of undamaged ICs after recycling)

Read-only, or the ability to edit filenames & upload files?

Read only: as per other answers here, basically any HTTP server. The easiest one I know would be darkhttpd, because it requires no config files and can be run without root.

Read write: I like WFM https://github.com/tenox7/wfm

$BILLIONS

I mentally read this in the same voice I read $VARIABLE with.

*mooshrooms

We rented our technology and could not read nor write.

Something weird https://ace-ev.com.au/

• Claim to be “made in Australia”
• Don’t provide any photos of their production line or factory.
• Underpowered (max speed 100kmph)

Perhaps imported and then assembled in Australia?

25/10 for 65AUD/m (43USD/m). Australia, NBN (monopoly across entire country, technically government owned but run like a private corp because of politics). It’s the lowest speed now available, but it’s already overpriced. $780/year is far more than all of my wifi capable equipment is worth together, including laptops.

Ah thanks, sorry, I was thinking of my MK3.

Are you turning off the magnetic ABL, or using it through the garolite?

So this problem is intermittent? Eep. If you’re lucky enough to be able to capture a video of the full home and print start when the problem occurs then that might help; but that might be difficult.

Can’t understand sigils. Printer was cursed. Makes sense.

https://halestrom.net/darksleep/blog/054_nvme/

Summary: two Silicon Power P34A80’s died within a few months of use, the second one was the warranty replacement of the first. In both cases sectors suddenly became permanently unreadable.

Yay. It’s so much nicer to go through these routes, especially when the have extra info. Youtube just wants you to watch more junk.

Gamersnexus used to do this, then they just abandoned their site. I think they’re using it again now but as a companion, it doesn’t link to their videos?

“Thou has missed daily prayers for two whole weeks”

Lawful good: Please don’t use 8P8C for anything other than 10/100/1000BASE* compatible protocols, especially on network devices. It’s confusing.
Chaotic good: Please don’t use ethernet cable for anything other than ethernet compatible protocols, especially on ethernet devices.
Lawful evil: That’s a valid use of Cat5 cable.
Chaotic evil: Let’s talk about RS-485

True neutral: Wires are just wires and standards are just standards. In a parallel dimensions, somewhere, cat5 is used for 8-phase delta mains power.

The Timekeeper

Sorry for the late reply, tied up. Thankyou for the photos.

The Z-axis leadscrews look OK in the photos (nothing obviously wrong). That’s a very clean and new printer.

Q1. Is there any grease on those Z-axis leadscrews (tall metal spiral rods) or are they completely dry?

Q2. If you force your printer to move up and down does it make unusual noises at some parts of its travel height? You can try typing thing g-code into your printer monitor software to make it move up and down:

G0 Z100 F1000   (move to Z position 100mm.  You won't actually travel at 1000mm/minute, instead the printer will do whatever it's max is)
G0 Z0 F1000    (move to Z position 0mm, ie nozzle touching the bed)

You may need to home the axes first (G28)

Q3. Are these screws on both sides properly tight? I think I might possibly see a gap under one, but it could also be an optical illusion from reflections.

The fact the lines are at the same height between different jobs suggests something is wrong with your Z axis. Can you post photos of your printer, including the Z rails and/or screws?