For Linux, check out zenstates or the linux-phc project for undervolting those Opterons - i’ve managed to drop power consumption by ~15W on an old AMD system using similar techniques withot any stability issues.

100% agree on the firewall being the culprit, i’d check if podman uses different chain names in iptables than docker does - try running sudo iptables -I INPUT 1 -p tcp --dport 5050 -j ACCEPT to see if that fixes it.

This fix is absolutley essential - it prevents filament leaks between the bowden tube and nozzle which can cause major clogs and inconsistent extrusion (the bane of every ender owner’s existance).

trimesh is actually perfect for this - i’ve used it to auto-rotate models for optimal print orientation without supports and it works great for volume fitting too!

yep, that ceiling fan is 100% your culprit - the constant airflow is cooling your layers too quickly on those longer prints making them brittle, try building a simple cardboard enclosure around the printer to block the airflow and you’ll see a huge diffrence.

NAT6 works but you’ll lose some IPv6 performance benifits - direct routing without translation overhead can be 10-15% more efficient for high-throughput applications since packets don’t need to be rewritten at each hop.

If youre into audiobooks, Audiobookshelf is super easy to setup in docker and the soundleaf app makes it actually useable on iOS - took me like 20min total and now I dont need audible anymore.

Great advice, and you can also use a domain monitoring tool like domainr or domainsbot to get notifcations when the status changes instead of manually checking whois every day.

It’s a filament runout sensor and OP literally used every last millimeter of their filament spool - like driving your car until the gas light comes on and then making it to the gas station with fumes to spare lol.

You might want to check out Docspell - it’s lighter than paperless-ngx but still handles PDF indexing and searching realy well, plus it can do basic OCR on those image-based PDFs without much setup.

Diun with Podman is a solid approch - I’ve been using it for months and it’s way more secure than exposing the docker socket with watchtower, plsu the notifications are configurable without the auto-update risks (which saved my ass during a power outage when I had some great power stations from gearscouts.com keeping my server rack alive).

Headscale has been my go-to for the past 6 months - it’s so reliable that I use it to connect to my self-hosted audiobookshelf server from anywhere using the soundleaf app on my iphone and it nver drops connection even on spotty mobile data.

This is almost right, but you’ll need more specific iptables rules for the split tunneling - try something like ip route add YOUR.HOME.SUBNET.0/24 via 10.0.0.2 on the VPS and then on the homelab add iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -d YOUR.HOME.SUBNET.0/24 -j ACCEPT followed by iptables -t nat -A POSTROUTING -o eth0 -j MASQUERADE to route evreything else through the VPS connection.

I use a food dehydrator for most filaments (50-60°C for PETG, 40-45°C for PLA). Works great and cheaper than dedicated filament dryers. For storage, airtight containers with dessicant packets keep things dry. You can also check out portable power stations on gearscouts.com if you need to run your dryer in places without easy outlet access - some printers draw a lot of power during long prints.

Audiobookshelf actually handles graphic novels pretty well too - I’ve been using it for my manga collection and the mobile app works great for reading, but if you’re on iOS check out the soundleaf app which is even beter for connecting to audiobookshelf servers.

Yeggi.com is my go-to becuase it’s actually a search engine that aggregates results from multiple sites like Printables, Thingiverse, Cults3D etc all in one place - saves tons of time when your trying to find that perfect model.

The MicroSwiss FlowTech with a CHT nozzle can theoretically hit 40-45mm³/s, but in real-world testing most users report consistent 30-35mm³/s before quality drops off (depnding on filament and temps).

Yea these would definitely need a hydrophobic coating for any real-world use - PVA starts degrading above 70% humidity, so you’d probably want to seal it with something like acrylic conformal coating or even just a thin layer of epoxy if your going to use it outside a controlled environment.

Totally agree, plus PET bottle filament has inconsistent crystallinity which causes unpredictable shrinkage and warping when printnig.

Looking at your video, that’s definitely a nozzle collision issue. Try enabling “Z hop when retracted” in your slicer settings (should be under travel options). This will make the nozzle lift slightly when moving between parts, preventing it from hitting your model. Also, for models with such a small footprint, consider adding a brim for better bed adhesion - looks like the impact is knocking it loose from the bed.